AdventureStories from Nepal![]()
We revisit the unnamed square (which me and Lizzi lovingly named Pigeon square) the next day for a closer look at the stupa. It’s said that the wind created by the pigeons’ wings will bring good health and that’s why bowls of corn and seeds are available to buy in every square. We’re told that the stupa here is a replica of the sacred Monkey temple, created so that people who are unable to climb the hill to the original temple can worship here instead. For lunch, we go shopping in a nearby market and find many places selling traditional Thanka paintings. These paintings usually depict deities and are hugely important to the practice of Buddhism, with artists taking 10 - 12 years to master the craft. We’re soon recommended a drink by the locals – made with hot lemon, rock salt and sugar – which we’re told is a popular beverage to drink with friends and watch the world go by.
Inspired by the Thanka paintings, we decide to visit the Embassy District to say hello to Aditya Aryal. Aditya is the artist who created the vibrant print for Sherpa’s Deity Tee. Aditya’s signature style features traditional elements of art and religion, whilst also mixing in a more contemporary design (geometric shapes, graffiti, and influences from the west). It was great to finally meet the artist behind the work and to tour his personal studio!
Finally, we head to the original Swayambhunath Monkey Temple. In mythology, it’s said that the temple grew from a lotus flower and is one of the original stupas. There are 365 steps to the top – one for every day of the year – but it’s well worth the climb for the view and the wildlife. On a clear day, the magnificent Langtang mountain range is visible, and monkeys roam free around that temple, completely unafraid of humans. They run up and down the stupa, through the crowds and then stop to relax in the sun, grooming each other. Towards the end of the day Lizzi and I try a local delicacy of Sikarni (a spiced yoghurt drink) and Momos (a delicious dumpling, filled with meat or veg and made with varying degrees of spiciness – depending on how brave you’re feeling!)
The next morning we’re back exploring Thamel, walking along its bustling streets. It’s interesting to see there are still cracks from the 2015 earthquake, visible all over the city. During our walk, we come across a ceremony to reinstate Buddha after a temple was rebuilt (many temples around the city were damaged in the earthquake and they’ve been working hard to renovate them). When a temple is restored, a ceremony is needed to reinstate the Buddha in their rightful place. We see offerings of fresh food and flowers and it’s beautiful to witness the community come together.
We head to Durbar Square next, where the coronations used to take place. There’s no monarchy anymore, but the thrones on display are impressive to behold. There is a huge complex of temples located here too, all of which were damaged in the earthquake but have since been rebuilt. In the afternoon, we travel back to Pigeon square to meet 6 boys and girls from the Scholarship programme. They’re all shy at first, but after some food, they’re soon chatting away and laughing with us! Two of the girls have already graduated from the programme and are hoping to continue their studies. These children are from very poor backgrounds in the Khumbu region and it’s amazing to see them now studying in a fully funded, prestigious private school in Kathmandu.
Finally, we say goodbye to the group and start our journey towards Nuwakot to meet Room to Read, the charity Sherpa works with. To get there, it’s a bumpy road over the mountain pass, around Kathmandu and over the other side. As we reach the top of the mountain pass, we spot the outline of the snowcapped Himalayas, glistening in the late afternoon sun. It really is a sight to see and unlike anything Lizzi and I have ever seen at home.
It’s an exciting morning as we head off to the first school to see their literacy programme. It’s an emotion and overwhelming arrival for us both as all the students line up in the yard to greet us. We’re welcomed with marigolds and tika – a red powder placed on the forehead, received as a blessing. We’re taken on a tour through the school and are able to watch the Grade 1 children learn sounds and letters through games. With Room to Read’s literacy programmes, many of these children are already better at reading and writing Nepali than many students in Grades 5 and 6.
Room to Read provides workbooks for the children, as well as special classes specifically for reading books. The books provided are also colour coded by difficulty, allowing the children to easily choose reading material at their own level. Room to Read also developed the library here and implemented a booking in/out system so that children can take books home to share with their siblings and parents. Many of these children’s parents can’t read, so it’s wonderful to see that knowledge being shared. In the afternoon we visit another school and the girl’s education programme there. The school was built with the help of Room to Read after the 2015 earthquake. We’re made to feel truly welcomed yet again as Lizzi and I are greeted at the school gate with tika and marigolds. The students cheer and hand us paper flowers and handmade cards - it truly is an emotional experience we’re not likely to forget anytime soon.
It’s incredible to see how all the girls are thriving here. Girls in the literacy programme are more likely to graduate and much less likely to be part of child marriage. They’re taught to advocate for themselves and make their own educated decisions. It really is amazing to witness the work that Room to Read has been able to do in shaping these girls’ lives, as well as hearing the stories firsthand on how the girls have developed life skills, gained confidence, and improved their relationships with their parents.
Unfortunately, our journey in a Nepal is almost at an end. Lizzi and I travel back to Kathmandu for one last walk down the streets of Thamel as people pour in for Friday evening festivities. Saturday is the only day off in the Nepali work week, so people here are making the most of their Friday. The already vibrant streets get busier and busier as people stream in, the roads quickly becoming clogged with motorbikes and pedestrians weaving around each other and through the chaos. It’s a far cry from the peace and serenity of Monkey Temple, but I love every second of it.
Mine and Lizzi’s journey through Nepal has been a truly life-changing experience – not just because of the rich culture, inspirational architecture, and exotic food, but because of the wonderful people living here too. It’s been amazing to finally meet the charity Sherpa works with as well as the children it directly impacts. It’s means so much to us to be able to see firsthand the real difference made to their education and how much hope it holds for their futures.
Discover the Beauty of Nepal With Us
December 12, 2023
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The Sherpa team recount their experience of Nepal
Day One – 30th October
It’s only 9am when Lizzi and I land in Kathmandu. After 12 hours of flying and an almost 6 hour time difference, we’re exhausted, but the silhouette of the snow-capped Himalayas emerging from the haze about 20 minutes before we arrive have us excited – we’re finally in Nepal!
We jump in a taxi, taking us to Thamel, the tourist district of Kathmandu and we immediately head out to walk around and take in the sights. The roads in the centre of Thamel are chaos. Motorbikes weave in and out of pedestrians and rickshaws, horns beep constantly, and the police blow their whistles in an attempt to direct the traffic. There are no road markings to be seen and there seems to be a careful dance between engines and feet to navigate the narrow streets safely. It’s a shared space for everyone and you’re free to make your way along it however you see fit.
Down the side streets you’ll find artisan markets selling everything from seeds and spices, to fabrics, trinkets, and traditional masks. Follow the narrow passages further and you’ll discover hidden gems; intricate carvings nestled and hidden among modern buildings. It’s down one of these passages we see our first stupa, a dome-shaped building used as a place of meditation for Buddhists.
It’s here with the stupa that we get our first moment of respite from the traffic and the noise. Pigeons flock through the square and old men walk clockwise around the stupa, spinning prayer wheels in moments of quiet reflection. The quiet soon settles over Thamel and it’s a peaceful end to the first day of our journey.
Day Two – 31st October
We revisit the unnamed square (which me and Lizzi lovingly named Pigeon square) the next day for a closer look at the stupa. It’s said that the wind created by the pigeons’ wings will bring good health and that’s why bowls of corn and seeds are available to buy in every square. We’re told that the stupa here is a replica of the sacred Monkey temple, created so that people who are unable to climb the hill to the original temple can worship here instead. For lunch, we go shopping in a nearby market and find many places selling traditional Thanka paintings. These paintings usually depict deities and are hugely important to the practice of Buddhism, with artists taking 10 - 12 years to master the craft. We’re soon recommended a drink by the locals – made with hot lemon, rock salt and sugar – which we’re told is a popular beverage to drink with friends and watch the world go by.
Inspired by the Thanka paintings, we decide to visit the Embassy District to say hello to Aditya Aryal. Aditya is the artist who created the vibrant print for Sherpa’s Deity Tee. Aditya’s signature style features traditional elements of art and religion, whilst also mixing in a more contemporary design (geometric shapes, graffiti, and influences from the west). It was great to finally meet the artist behind the work and to tour his personal studio!
Finally, we head to the original Swayambhunath Monkey Temple. In mythology, it’s said that the temple grew from a lotus flower and is one of the original stupas. There are 365 steps to the top – one for every day of the year – but it’s well worth the climb for the view and the wildlife. On a clear day, the magnificent Langtang mountain range is visible, and monkeys roam free around that temple, completely unafraid of humans. They run up and down the stupa, through the crowds and then stop to relax in the sun, grooming each other. Towards the end of the day Lizzi and I try a local delicacy of Sikarni (a spiced yoghurt drink) and Momos (a delicious dumpling, filled with meat or veg and made with varying degrees of spiciness – depending on how brave you’re feeling!)
The Artist Collection
Day Three – 1st November
The next morning we’re back exploring Thamel, walking along its bustling streets. It’s interesting to see there are still cracks from the 2015 earthquake, visible all over the city. During our walk, we come across a ceremony to reinstate Buddha after a temple was rebuilt (many temples around the city were damaged in the earthquake and they’ve been working hard to renovate them). When a temple is restored, a ceremony is needed to reinstate the Buddha in their rightful place. We see offerings of fresh food and flowers and it’s beautiful to witness the community come together.
We head to Durbar Square next, where the coronations used to take place. There’s no monarchy anymore, but the thrones on display are impressive to behold. There is a huge complex of temples located here too, all of which were damaged in the earthquake but have since been rebuilt. In the afternoon, we travel back to Pigeon square to meet 6 boys and girls from the Scholarship programme. They’re all shy at first, but after some food, they’re soon chatting away and laughing with us! Two of the girls have already graduated from the programme and are hoping to continue their studies. These children are from very poor backgrounds in the Khumbu region and it’s amazing to see them now studying in a fully funded, prestigious private school in Kathmandu.
Finally, we say goodbye to the group and start our journey towards Nuwakot to meet Room to Read, the charity Sherpa works with. To get there, it’s a bumpy road over the mountain pass, around Kathmandu and over the other side. As we reach the top of the mountain pass, we spot the outline of the snowcapped Himalayas, glistening in the late afternoon sun. It really is a sight to see and unlike anything Lizzi and I have ever seen at home.
Day Four – 2nd November
It’s an exciting morning as we head off to the first school to see their literacy programme. It’s an emotion and overwhelming arrival for us both as all the students line up in the yard to greet us. We’re welcomed with marigolds and tika – a red powder placed on the forehead, received as a blessing. We’re taken on a tour through the school and are able to watch the Grade 1 children learn sounds and letters through games. With Room to Read’s literacy programmes, many of these children are already better at reading and writing Nepali than many students in Grades 5 and 6.
Room to Read provides workbooks for the children, as well as special classes specifically for reading books. The books provided are also colour coded by difficulty, allowing the children to easily choose reading material at their own level. Room to Read also developed the library here and implemented a booking in/out system so that children can take books home to share with their siblings and parents. Many of these children’s parents can’t read, so it’s wonderful to see that knowledge being shared. In the afternoon we visit another school and the girl’s education programme there. The school was built with the help of Room to Read after the 2015 earthquake. We’re made to feel truly welcomed yet again as Lizzi and I are greeted at the school gate with tika and marigolds. The students cheer and hand us paper flowers and handmade cards - it truly is an emotional experience we’re not likely to forget anytime soon.
It’s incredible to see how all the girls are thriving here. Girls in the literacy programme are more likely to graduate and much less likely to be part of child marriage. They’re taught to advocate for themselves and make their own educated decisions. It really is amazing to witness the work that Room to Read has been able to do in shaping these girls’ lives, as well as hearing the stories firsthand on how the girls have developed life skills, gained confidence, and improved their relationships with their parents.
Day Five – 3rd November
Unfortunately, our journey in a Nepal is almost at an end. Lizzi and I travel back to Kathmandu for one last walk down the streets of Thamel as people pour in for Friday evening festivities. Saturday is the only day off in the Nepali work week, so people here are making the most of their Friday. The already vibrant streets get busier and busier as people stream in, the roads quickly becoming clogged with motorbikes and pedestrians weaving around each other and through the chaos. It’s a far cry from the peace and serenity of Monkey Temple, but I love every second of it.
Mine and Lizzi’s journey through Nepal has been a truly life-changing experience – not just because of the rich culture, inspirational architecture, and exotic food, but because of the wonderful people living here too. It’s been amazing to finally meet the charity Sherpa works with as well as the children it directly impacts. It’s means so much to us to be able to see firsthand the real difference made to their education and how much hope it holds for their futures.